Pavillon de Chavannes Côte de Brouilly Cuvée des Ambassades 2022

This is a very old school Beaujolais in the best sense: beautiful garnet color, beguiling aromatics, and a burst of refreshment in the mouth-and that burst is a savory, mineral, toothsome thing because of the domaine's high elevations and because of Brouilly's meager volcanic soils. Some crus emphasize soil notes, others give fruit, but only good Côte de Brouilly gives stone in the flavor.